Bloc Magazine Spring 15

6 // WWW.BLOCHOTELS.COM waterworld VENICE: WORDS // ANN BURCH V enice in springtime is the most magical time to enjoy the gem of the Adriatic, before high summer turns its streets into a mass of bustling day-trippers. There are days when tourists outnumber locals two-to-one, but it is always easy for the smart traveller to avoid the crowds. And hunting down some of the city’s secret places is a rewarding sport. Even in the honeytraps of St Mark’s, the Doge’s Palace and the Gallerie dell’Accademia, you’re never far from the peace and quiet of Italy’s dolce vita. Venice is, first and foremost, a walking city. Even at its busiest, you are only ever a bridge and an alley away from blissful seclusion. The city is full of secret squares, hidden views of shimmering sun on water, handsome Gothic palazzi and lively local wine bars. Instead of paying for the usual gondola ride, take a two-euro trip on one of the large traghetto, two oarsmen gondolas that criss- cross the Grand Canal. Ensure you look like a local by standing up during the crossing. Lunch in the legendary Harry’s Bar is a Venice staple. Ask for a table upstairs to avoid the hordes. There are far fewer diners and the view is still awesome. The bar is rightly proud of inventing the Bellini, a cocktail of peach juice and prosecco that will set you up nicely for an indulgent dining experience. HIDDEN GEMS Another must is a visit to the ancient suburb Torcello. Once the most densely-inhabited island on the lagoon, it is now a sleepy refuge with two handsome must-see churches. The area once boasted twelve parishes and sixteen cloisters, but the Venitian passion for recycling building materials mean that most have now disappeared and re-used in other parts of town. Torcello is also home to the Museo Querini Stampalia, which houses several fascinating and important Baroque and Rococo works of art – including Giovanni Bellini’s mysterious Presentation in the Temple. Ernest Hemingway spent time there in in 1948, writing parts of his classic Across the River and Into the Trees. Torcello provided the backdrop for his story. When you are walking around Venice, there is an etiquette to follow to make sure you blend in properly with the just-so locals. Its alleyways and bridges are main arteries, the equivalent of highways and flyovers – so backpackers sitting on a bridge are treated with the contempt of road hogs parking in the middle of the road. Strict local bylaws that prevent people tucking into packed lunches in crowded squares and trundling wheelie cases on the cobbles are all designed to keep the city moving. A simple “buon giorno” in the morning or “buona sera” in the afternoon or evening goes a long way to winning new friends in the city. “Ciao” is more informal.